‘OOWAH Lite ’ Flying Combat Wing

Original design by Andy Whitehead.

Re-designed slightly by myself, Dave Matthews to be able to reach sub 250g with the right gear.

UPDATED 7th Feb 2020: Reflex pics, decals hint and my control throws

Specs:

Wingspan: 700mm
Motor: 2206 size electric or Cox nitro power
Prop: 5” x 3”
Lipo : 2-3 Cell 500-1000mAh
ESC : 20 Amp
Servos: 2x 9g (Hitec Hs55 equivalent)

The price for this kit is 35 euros excluding postage

postage is World Wide so let me know where you are

We have deals on 5 and 10 box kits if your club is looking for something to build for club combat

Payment is via paypal, details on this and all postage rates based on your location is available by emailing us below

Mail Us Here OOWAH EMAILMail Us Here

___________________________________________________________________________

 

Building this model is simplicity itself as all parts needed are supplied in this kit of laser cut parts to produce a fun model for club combat and just a fun factor on a grand scale in a small package.

To finish off the model you will need your choice of heat shrink covering film and the running gear and radio as described above in the specs.

To make sure this kit is built straight and warp free you will need a building board of minimum size of 750mm x 250mm in size (MDF of about 16mm thick is ideal). Two lengths of straight 25mm square wood. One length at 750mm glued to the bottom edge of the surface of the board and one smaller piece at 120-130mm long glued on the board surface at 90 degrees to the first. These will make up two straight and true edges for you to build to ensuring all is square during the build.

For construction, you will need PVA, Aliphatic resin or Cyano glues. The choice is yours, but remember, cyano does not let you readjust any building mistakes you may make.

All the parts are tabbed in the wooden surrounds during laser cutting so a balsa knife or similar blade will be needed to release the parts for a cleaner edge. A small file, sandpaper or axe, will smooth down any tabs that are proud on any parts. Just joking about the axe.......

 

(Please note that in this picture below, the spars and the two trailing edge sheets are shown as one piece, however they have to be joined as directed below)

 

 

Building the model:

The model should be built in this order to make things easier for you. Firstly build the fuselage centre section making sure all is square buy first gluing on the 1.6mm ply doublers making a left and right handed pair of sides.

Add the fuse formers 90 degrees to one side and then add the other side. Glue in the servo mount plate. DO NOT add the 1.6mm ply top and bottom skins until later after the wing has been built and the fuselage has been glued in place to it’s location in the wing centre.

Build the wing with one tip rib held firmly pinned or clamped to the shorter of the two model building board wooden jigs.

Glue the trailing edges together to make two separate trailing edges of 625mm long. Put one of these onto the top of the tip rib and along and against the longer bottom building board wood jig. Glue the 2 1.6mm x 6.35mm spar caps together to make up a 625mm long cap and do the same with the 3.2mm stock main spar, again glueing the 2 laser cut parts together again to make up a 625mm long part. Place the cap strip flat down on the building board under all the ribs in their locations and slot the main spar down over the ribs locking them in place.

Take note of where they go and allow for the fins to go between the balsa rib and ply sub rib.

Take note that 2 ribs go either side of where the fuselage section goes. It is better to glue these ribs together before adding them to the building board. It is handy to place the fuselage upside down over the spar to separate those ‘root’ ribs whilst glue dries, but just make sure you can remove it once set.

When all glue is set, add the two 287mm top spar caps to the wings making sure they don’t pass into the area where the fuselage will go. Glue on the wooden Dowel leading edges again making sure not to pass the dowels into the area where the fuselage will go. (please note that in the picture below, the cap strips did go into the fuse area as this was a pre-production kit)

You can now remove the wing from the building board. Glue on the wing tips and add the 1.6mm x 6.35mm x 30mm cap strips to the top surface of the wing tip gussets.

Turn the wing over and glue in the fuselage section making sure it butts up to the underside of the top trailing edge sheeting and the bottom spar cap strip.

Once set, you can glue in the 1.6mm rib trailing edge spacers and the bottom rear trailing edge sheet to the ribs

Glue the bottom plywood fuselage sheeting in place starting with aligning it first with the motor firewall and then noting that you will need to cut a section of the trailing edge under the ply sheeting away to seat the plywood in place against the ribs and flush against the trailing edge sheeting.

Turning the wing back over the correct way up, add the top ply sheeting with the battery access hatch to the front of the model. A rear ply plate of 50mm x 17mm x 1.6mm should be added between the servo mounting plate and the trailing edge. Again, cutting away a section of the trailing edge will ensure this plate mounts flush with the ribs.

The hatch lug to the main ply hatch by gluing in place with a bead of thick cyano of epoxy to make a hatch that wont get loose on the front edge. You can secure the back edge by a screw or tape on the finished model, but you will have to add a bock of hard wood for a screw to go into. Add two 1.6mm ply hatch seat/locators to the inside of the fuselage under where the hatch will seat to.

That is up to you. Lastly, using a knife blade, remove all the rib jig tabs from the underside of the wing. Smooth out any flash from these by using a small file, sandpaper, but not an axe. Place one side of the wing bottom side down on the build board with the trailing edge of the wing flat on the surface (because the fuselage section will be in the way to do the whole wing at once) and glue on the trailing edge wing tip that comes out of the 4.7mm thick stock laser cut sheet. (note the laser etched line on both of these and the elevons), that is the line to shave away wood to form a section to form reflex to the flying wing and should be place on the bottom of the wing. Do the same for the other trailing edge wing tip. Note that they are added this way to add to the reflex of the wing.

Correct Reflex is built in, if you make sure the trailing edge tips are glued on to the wing flat to the bottom edge of the ribs as shown in the pictures below.

Your model is now ready for light sanding and covering. Install your gear and balance your model at 45mm back from the leading edge of the wing. Throws on the elevons are your personal choice (don’t forget to shave and sand in that reflex to that etched line). Ply control horns are supplied in the kit to hook up to your servos.

When adding the flames decals, it is best to slice the decals along the lines indicated in black. This allows for the easier aplication of the decal once the paper backing has been removed from the decal and clear carrier film, onto the wing/film surface. Simply place on the surface of the wing from the leading edge and then slowly ease/rub you finger thumb across the decal one wing panel at a time to get rid of any bubbles and stop craesing happening. The cut lines allow a better curvature of the decal to the wing surface. Once all rubbed down, peel off the clear carrier film from the graphic/decal.

Depending on your motor choice, balance point and flying style, you may need to add in down thrust or right thrust to your motor by shimming the motor mount but my model did not require anything. Using the lightes setups can result in having a model under 250g, but for extra speed and endurance, your model might be heavier that this.

 

Now, Just fly and have fun........and light up the skies.

Dave Matthews.

 

For my model I set up the controls as follows.

Remember, your flying style and what you want the model to do with dictate the throws you end up using.....

Elevator throw was set to 15mm up and down, measured at the trailing edge at the widest point of the elevator.

Aileron throw was 20mm each way, measured at the trailing edge at the widest point of the elevator.

I used 35% expo on all controls myself

CG was set at 45mm back from the leading edge of the wing.

The price for this kit is 35 euros excluding postage

postage is World Wide so let me know where you are

We have deals on 5 and 10 box kits if your club is looking for something to build for club combat

Payment is via paypal, details on this and all postage rates based on your location is available by emailing us below

Mail Us Here OOWAH EMAILMail Us Here

___________________________________________________________________________